Anecdotes & Recounts of our Guests

"Hola everyone (who really counts),

Well, my two weeks in Patagonia couldn't have been better spent anywhere else. I arrived a couple of days early to spend some quality time with Viviana and Pablo in their new apartment and put finishing touches on the weeks' plans. I just love my time with Vivi and Pab, but the time is always too short. I also discovered that among her many talents Viviana is quite the good cook. The evening I arrived we had a most delicious meal of Cordoban sausage and cheese, wonderful lamb chops, a nice arugula and ham sidedish, a bottle of malbec and two bottles of champagne. I hit the bed at midnight and slept like a baby.

Our mountain bike guests arrived and we had an awesome week. We rode the Rio Limay Loop through the spectacular landscape of the Enchanted Valley in this corner of the Argentine Steppe. The next day we biked the mostly single track along the Rio Manso through ancient forests, sleepy pastures and over rushing, alpine streams. We stopped for lunch at the rafting BBQ and had, of all things, gnocchis (picked as the best dish of the week)served in a wonderful mushroom sauce. Of course we also enjoyed the asado (BBQ). We then proceeded to the border with Chile. This was just a step into Chile. In a couple of days we would really experience that great country.

The third day was our tour of the Los Arrayanes National Park in Villa La Angostura and the largest forest of the cinnamon colored Arraynes trees in the world. It is said that this forest inspired Walt Disney in his animated forest scenes in Bambi, Snow White, etc. Pablo gave us a complete history of this forest and explained that these trees can only be found in this small area of the world. It really is a spectacular ride, albeit with a very challenging first kilometer, or so.

On day four we started our odyssey across the Andes and deep into Chile. We were in part sailing across the Andes and I can't imagine a better way of getting to Chile. We took the first boat out of Llao Llao and head eastward for about one hour on Lake Nahuel Huapi. Upon disembarkment we rode our mountain bikes to the next boat (only 3 kilometers) while the "normal" passengers were transported by bus. Much to the joy of several Japanese girls on board sitting at the rear window we drafted the bus until the potholes on the dirt road convinced us to use better judgement. We all arrived at the next dock at about the same time. Our second boat ride was only about 20 minutes across Lake Frias, but spectacular with its green water denoting it glacial origin. The waters of these lakes are tinted by the minerals scrubbed off the rocky summits by their glaciers. However, the actual crossing would take place after a reasonably tough climb on a hard-packed gravel road through the 3100' pass during the 17 kilometer ride to the final boat. Somewhere on the long descent on the other side of the pass I started to feel like a mountain biker. Along the route we had a spectacular view of Mount Tronador and its blue glacier. Our destination for this leg was Lake Todos los Santos. While waiting for the boat Pablo and I had a lunch of mussel and calamari soup that was to-die-for good, but as good as it was it was only a "taste" of what was to come in Chilean cuisine. After lunch we enjoyed a cyclocross demonstration of mounting and dismounting by our resident experts Linda and John Elgart. I didn't even attempt it.

We caught the final boat to Petrohue across Lake Todos los Santos. Although clouds rolled in and it began to rain we were treated to a spectacular view of Mount Osorno, a fantastic 9000' high volcano looking very much like Japan's Mt. Fuji. Viviana with support vehicle was waiting for us at the port in Petrohue and drove us deep into the rain forest on the Chilean side of the Andes. We stayed the night at Ralun, Chile in a rustic, but very comfortable fishing lodge, Los Ulmos. That evening we were treated to probably the best seafood dinner I have ever enjoyed. I will have to go into some detail here. We started with some very firm fish (or maybe eel) cut in cross sections with a mayonnaise dressing accompanied by very fresh tomato and lettuce and a super potato salad. There was homemade bread which I enjoyed with the extra virgin olive oil on the table which was quite good.There was also a nice ground red pepper on the table which added a kick to everything. The next course was three different types of clams served on the half-shell served with some great relishes. One clam was cherrystone-size and two of which I had never experienced before, a clam in a rectangular shell served neapolitan-style and a large mussel. They were all more tender then any clam I had ever eaten. Of note was the largest mussel I have ever seen. Seriously, it should have been served with a carving knife. In fact I cut mine into three bite-sized pieces. The clams were followed by a main course of a cheese based, almost soufflé-lke, crab dish which everyone raved about. Dinner was served with a very nice Chilean sauvignon blanc. Linda said it was the best meal of her life. I'd have to agree that there were few better.

The next morning we awoke to a bright and sunny day. We were all taken by the beauty and size of the trees, ferns and flowers in this forested area. The hydrangia blossoms were the size of my head and the fern fronds towering above them were probably six feet wide and ten feet long. There was bamboo everywhere. . .magical. We headed out on the longest ride of the week from Ralun to the ferry at Caleta Puelche. The road we would be traversing was hard packed dirt and overlooked the breathtaking fiords of this area. Although remote, living in such a place must be idealic. The waters of the fiords are also home to many "farm raised" fish businesses. There is no similarity to anything I had imagined of such an industry. The farms were simply cordined off areas in the middle of the fiord. I'll have no problem eating Chilean farm-raised fish in the future. In fact, midway through our ride on this day we stopped at a small restuarant near Rio Puelo Bajo(or the middle of nowhere) and I had the best grilled salmon of my life with pampa fritas (french fries) made from potatoes that must have been picked immediately after my order was placed...unbelievable.

At the end of the day's ride we caught a ferry across the fiord and headed by our support vehicle to the seaport town of Puerto Montt. Our hotel was smack dab in the center of the waterfront with a beautiful view of the bay that leads into the Pacific Ocean. That evening we got dressed to impress and had diner at one of the finest seafood restaurants in town. It was just a short walk from the hotel and situated on a long pier over the bay. We started our fine meal with the (and I am getting tired of using this adjective) best Pisco Sour I have ever had. Viviana promised that the Pisco Sours were best in Chile and she was correct. After a delightful dinner and a second Pisco Sour we floated home.

After awaking to the beautiful view from my 10th story ocean view room, complete with The Love Boat anchored front and center, I had a nice breakfast and we headed out for a day of sightseeing on our return to Bariloche. We first visited the fish and craft markets of Puerto Montt and I was immediately taken by the lack of fish smell at the market. The variety and quality of the fresh fish was simply amazing. Why do I live in Pennsylvania? Linda bought a beautiful, fine alpaca shawl for only $40. I, on the other hand, bought a refrigerator magnet for a buck. Our next stop was the city of Puerto Varas. This lakeside town is gorgeous with its beautiful achitecture, bustling downtown with every upscale and artisan shop you can imagine, and spectacular view of both volcanos, Mount Osorno and Mount Puntiagudo, at a safe distance across the Lake Llanquihue. Continuing around the lake we stopped at the cute "German" town of Frutillar. Of course this town also had very unique and very German architecture as well as another spectacular view of the volcanos. We enjoyed a very nice lunch with local beer that in a word was wunderbar!

From Frutillar we headed home to Bariloche. This drive took us around the city of Osorno, Chile and past Lake Puyehue, back over the Andes and through Villa La Angostura past. That evening we enjoyed our final meal at the Hotel Edelweiss and reflected on what a great week we had. I hated for the week with John and Linda to end and the thought of putting the mountain bike away, but looked forward to the next week with Sandy and the road riding "guests".